Buffa’s Lounge.
Unusual name (say: “BOOF-uhz”), funky old building. Sits at the corner of Esplanade (which divides the French Quarter from the Faubourg Marigny) and Burgundy, with the accent on the gun. There’s a nice divey bar in front and a big dining room (with a little bar) in back.
The front room’s a gem; a true corner bar, full of locals but welcoming to tourists. The dining room often has something going on like live music or movie night. Last time we were there, we had both: Tom McDermott and Aurora Nealand played piano and clarinet respectively, accompanying an old Buster Keaton silent on the screen they’d set up. Wifey Mae and I sat at the bar, enjoyed two drinks and some delightfully fried apps, and loved being right there, right then.
And another good thing about Buffa’s: it’s easy to get to, but just enough off the beaten path that it’s not too crowded or full of d-bags. For now. Go. Soon. And as a disembodied voice from an unseen balcony in the night hollered to my friend as we were biking to Buffa’s while she mused aloud as to what she might order when we got there: “GET THE SHRIMP CREOLE.” She did, and it was delightful.
Buffa’s is part of my Great Good Places of New Orleans series, which will hang this summer at Preservation Hall, the fabled trad-jazz joint on St. Peter Street in the French Quarter. The picture above is my line art for what will be a limited-color print. When they’re ready, you can buy ’em right here.
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